Podcast: Golf and the Good Life Near Aberdeen

D.J. Jones: Welcome to Golf and the Good Life, Your guide to Golf Travel Across the Pond.

I'm DJ Jones, joined as always by my good friend, Connor Evers.

And today we are taking a broader look at Golf and the Good Life in the Aberdeen area.

This is sort of in follow up to our last episode about Cruden Bay.

But before we get there, Connor, another memorable golf travel season is officially in the books.

 

Connor Evers: It sure is DJ.

And it's a pleasure to be with you today and talking about Aberdeen.

And as you said, the 2024 golf travel season is officially complete.

So we've been chatting, you know, a few times, obviously in the pods and saying, Oh, the season's going by and et cetera, et cetera.

First group's leaving, and now it's now it's complete.

So it's been a fantastic and successful season across the pond.

And congratulations to all of our members that have traveled overseas for multiple different expeditions.

And a shout out to all of our partners across the pond and our team here at stateside.

Just an incredible year, a lot of memories made and looking forward to sharing those more in the upcoming 2025 golf travel season.

So we flip a page and start the logistics and full planning for that too.

But a little bit of R&R from us and the team.

A few of us are traveling overseas to visit our partners.

So looking forward to that as well as we usually do that in the off season.

But other than that, Deej, all good.

And like I said, looking forward to 25 season.

 

D.J. Jones: Yeah, great stuff.

And you really hit the nail on the head.

A big time hat tip to all of our friends and partners across the pond.

I mean, everyone from driver hosts and caddies, to bartenders and servers and concierge, and anyone that is at all involved in the hospitality business.

We couldn't do without you, is really what it comes down to.

And thank you for all of your efforts over the last several months in terms of making those memories and yes, obviously, thank you as well to all of our members that traveled this year It was another awesome year.

Before we get to the episode, I do need to give a quick shout out to Matthew Greber.

Matthew is a podcast listener who I just randomly, not long ago, discovered his substack where he had written an article piggybacking our episodes on our favorite par threes in Scotland and Ireland.

I don't even remember how I found it, but I saw it and I was like, "holy cow, this is us."

And so shout out to you, Matthew. Thanks for listening.

And it was cool to see that some of our favorites made your list as well.

But shifting to today's episode, we are, of course, talking about Aberdeen.

Again, this is kind of piggybacking our conversation in the last episode with Ru Macdonald, where we talked in depth about both Cruden Bay and this area as well.

If you haven't had a listen, go back and have it.

It will be it's worth your time, especially if you're considering heading to this area.

But the Aberdeen area, in terms of Scotland golf travel, it's often one of the odd regions out.

You know, it can get overlooked. It's easy to just drive right by sort of thing.

But yet there is no shortage of great golf and the good life as well.

Connor, from a from a planning perspective, we always love to get your insight on this type of thing.

How does Aberdeen fit into what you're doing on a daily basis, planning out expeditions across the pond?

 

Connor Evers: Yeah, sure.

I mean, as you mentioned, it's an area that still has good availability, great availability, I should probably say, even for next year.

Again, this podcast will be around the middle of October.

And still there's great availability for a lot of the key courses and marquee courses such as Cruden Bay and Royal Aberdeen for 2025.

A few others we'll talk about today.

So it's one of those areas where you don't need to get too far ahead of it, like Muirfield and the Old Course and Portrush and County Down, as we mentioned in previous podcasts.

It's one of those areas where you can still kind of book a great trip even a little bit later in the year prior.

Or even, we'll sometimes have groups that'll book it in the beginning of the year of the year travel.

So it's one of those areas where you can still have good flexibility and good availability.

The other thing too is it pairs really well with St. Andrews or the Highlands.

A lot of groups will maybe stay in Dornoch and play up in that area, or in Inverness and play up in that area, and then usually check out of their lodging in Dornoch or Inverness, play a course around there, and then transition down to Aberdeen or vice versa the other way.

So it's one of those areas where a lot of our groups like to pair it, not only there but just different areas throughout Scotland.

But as Deej said, it is sometimes an overlooked area, but the golf is exceptional in the area, like the likes of Cruden Bay and Royal Aberdeen.

And some groups also like to go down a little bit south of that area if they are staying there and play Carnoustie.

Some groups like to do that too, so that's kind of a fun track. I had a group from Los Angeles this past spring that played Montrose as well.

So quite a few even just outside of that major Aberdeen area.

And as I kind of mentioned, the two main courses are a Royal Aberdeen and Cruden Bay.

And a little bit more kind of the planning perspective on those two courses.

Both are open Monday through Sunday for visitor play.

The one thing to kind of look out for is especially weekend play.

It's kind of the same throughout Ireland and Scotland and England.

But there are limited visitor times at both clubs on the weekends.

Usually I believe at Cruden Bay, it's around 2.30 or so and then after.

And then at Royal Aberdeen, it's usually about 3 to 3.30 and after.

Funny with Cruden Bay, if you are playing there on the weekends, again, you can. But you can't have consecutive tee times.

It's a visitor time, it's a member time, it's a visitor time, and it's a member time.

So just something to keep in consideration.

It's a little funky how they do it, but just something to consider there.

And then at Royal Aberdeen, Monday, Wednesday and Fridays are going to be your best bet.

That's usually when they have the best availability.

On Tuesdays and Thursdays, it's either really early in the morning or it's afternoon.

They don't have those midday times that a lot of folks enjoy, 10 to 11 a.m.

So there's a couple of perspectives there, but I guess comparatively, some other courses throughout GB&I, I mean, you can play both of these Monday through Sunday, which is great, but just a couple of nuances to both of those.

And I know we'll talk about some other courses outside of those two as well, but I just wanted to give a planning perspective on the area, as well as the two major courses within the Aberdeen area.

 

D.J. Jones: Well, it's great stuff, especially, you know, as we have just talked, it feels like repeatedly on this podcast about the need to plan early.

And you know, not everyone can plan a golf trip 18 months or two years in advance.

And that's unfortunately what's needed for some of the destinations.

But for you to be able to put together a really outstanding trip with six, eight months notice that again, I never I realized for some folks that is that's still a long time in advance.

But, you know, in this business, that's kind of last minute.

And for to be able to put it together on that kind of timeline is a big time advantage, you know, for this area.

And you're not essentially downgrading, if you will, by doing that.

I mean, you're still coming away with some outstanding golf.

And like you mentioned, it starts with the namesake at Royal Aberdeen.

Royal Aberdeen is the sixth oldest golf club in the world.

I'm going to say it's one of the more prestigious clubs, if you will, in Scotland.

I don't know if Muirfield of the North is the right term, but it's close.

It's in that same ballpark, if you will.

I mean, it's a prestigious place. It has held the Scottish Open and Walker Cups. Pretty great membership.

And it is also home to perhaps the finest front nine in Scotland. Definitely one of the best in the game of golf.

And what I love about the front nine at Royal Aberdeen is so often with these links courses, you hear about how the first and closing hole is often just a connector to the links land.

The opening and closing holes are sometimes a little mundane because all they're really doing is serving as like a subway to the better property.

Well, Royal Aberdeen hits you right from the opening tee shot.

The tee box is practically inside the member's lounge.

If you're hitting off around lunchtime while everyone is in there watching your opening shot, I hope you've warmed up before you came to the club.

It runs away from the clubhouse and faces straight at the sea.

Oftentimes, there's oil tankers and so forth that are offshore.

It's just a really great view.

But especially if you were out there early morning, the sun's coming up over the sea, it's just an incredible spot.

Last time I was there, the club was nice enough to basically say, hey, just come as early as you want.

And for me, that's dark.

And I was out there as the sun was coming up and I came across some deer on the second or third hole.

It was just an awesome, awesome moment.

The back nine, you know, it turns inland.

And so it's not quite as thrilling as the outward side.

Overall, it is just pure links golf at its finest.

And it's a course that absolutely should not be missed if you're in the area.

I mean, not only is it one of the best in Scotland, but it's it's one of the best in the world.

And, you know, if you do nothing else but play the front nine, Connor, it will have been worth the trip.

But there are several others here nearby that shouldn't be missed, one of which we we talked pretty in-depth about last episode.

 

Connor Evers: Yeah, next up a little bit is Cruden Bay.

And I won't go into the in-depth details of it.

The last podcast that that we did is with Ru Macdonald.

And we went into some more kind of in-depth, like I said, details of Cruden Bay and why Ru loves it so much.

I mean, why we love it so much.

So go back and listen to that if you haven't already for kind of those details on Cruden Bay.

And I would say it is kind of the you know, Cruden is the kind of the primary draw for the Aberdeen area.

It's a fantastic course.

I love it. We both love it.

And it's just a fun, really fun course to play.

And one that I tell groups, if you're in the area and have like an emergency 18 or want to play somewhere again, play there.

It's just that fun.

It's one of those where you get off the course and you just want to play it right again because it's just so good.

So that's kind of Cruden Bay.

Like I said, go back and listen to that for more details.

The other course there would be Trump International.

It's kind of a modern links setting.

Very dramatic dunes throughout.

It's very exposed.

So if you do have a windy day, good luck.

There are some water features on the course.

So unlike some of their courses like Royal Aberdeen and Cruden Bay, you have those to kind of look at as well.

And actually with that property, they are constructing a second course.

The dates of kind of when it will be open is a little unknown, but probably a 2026 debut, which will be interesting because that'll be the sign of the same time as Old Petty up at Cabot Highlands will be around the same time.

So a lot of different additions to the Highlands and Aberdeen area in the next coming years too, but that would be Cruden Bay and Trump for the folks.

 

D.J. Jones: Well, it's funny because between the second course there, the second course at Cabot Highlands and here just recently, Macrihanish Dunes was given planning permission for a second course by David McLay Kidd.

So it will be a second course city around and many places where you're going to be able to stop and play multiple rounds and not have it be one course that you really wanted to play in a second course that was just a filler, is what it seems is going to be on deck for those areas, which is really great.

But the thing about Aberdeen that I have always found so impressive is the three headliners, if you will, obviously are the main draw for obvious reasons.

But the lineup of courses on their bench is outstanding.

I mean, right next door to Royal Aberdeen, you've got Murcar Links.

I was there not long ago.

And just again, an awesome stretch of classic links golf.

I think I heard at one point, and actually Ru might have mentioned it on the last episode, that if you were to play the front nine at Royal Aberdeen and somehow play the front nine at Murcar Links, you would have the best course in Scotland.

And I believe it.

I mean, it's just two places that share the same stretch of land.

In fact, I think there's a story at some point where golfers got lost and wound up on the other course.

If you're there and you're playing Royal Aberdeen, or even if you're not, if you're in this area, Murcar is worth the visit.

Peterhead is another one that flies under the radar.

I've always found it unique that you pull into the parking lot and there's essentially a small stream that essentially separates the parking lot from the clubhouse.

So you park and you walk across a bridge to the actual course, which I've always thought is neat.

But again, it's a case where you've got some holes that are somewhat forgettable, but some really great links holes.

They've just done some work to one of the par threes out on the far end of the links.

I can't remember which hole it is, but it's funny.

I was standing on that tee box not long ago, and the gent that I was with, who was with the club, I was like, so tell me about that land that's further out there.

There's this incredible stretch of links land that you're like, why didn't they build the course there?

And he was telling me, well, it's been farmland for a long time.

We'd love to get our hands on it, but it's probably not in the cards.

But what they have is still really great and worth a visit.

And then further north, Ru talked about it again on the last episode, Fraserburgh.

Royal Aberdeen is the sixth oldest club.

Fraserburgh is the seventh oldest club.

It dates to 1777, a classic case where the opening and closing holes, you're going to forget them, but the middle 16 holes, you won't forget.

Just a very cool stretch of links golf.

And again, it just flies completely under the radar.

It's a James Braid design and probably one of his best, if not his best in links golf.

It gives Brora a run in terms of that ranking.

But it's one of those places that is in a place that maybe subtracts a little bit because it's in a bit of an odd spot.

When you leave Aberdeen to go to the Highlands or vice versa, you got to go a little out of your way to get to Fraserburgh.

It's worth the trek and it's a great transition day round if you're moving to spots.

If you want to play somewhere that none of your buddies have, this would be the choice.

But there's so many that you could stretch out to.

Stonehaven is another little course nearby that is playing on cliff tops.

Cullen, you could almost say is part of this region.

Again, it's an Old Tom Morris course that's got these giant stone mounds right in the middle of the course.

So, No Laying Up did a good video from there not long ago.

I remember, it's been probably a few years ago now, but we had a group that came to us very late in the game.

I mean, we're talking, it was like April of that year.

And they were like, we really want to take a trip.

Where can we go?

And the answer was basically, well, you can go to Aberdeen and you can play Fraserburgh, Murcar.

I think we managed to get them around at Cruden Bay.

And Peterhead, and I think they even played Stonehaven.

And that was their trip.

And they loved it.

And it was all just quote unquote, these second stop places, the places that wouldn't hit the headlines, but shouldn't be missed.

And they had a great trip and just shows you the strength of the golf in this region.

 

Connor Evers: Yeah, you're right.

I'm just, when you're talking, I'm just thinking about this.

I mean, it's just Scotland in general, but even kind of more specifically to this area, just the wealth of courses outside of the big name ones.

I mean, everyone wants to go over and box check, Carnoustie, Kingsbarns and Dornoch.

And yeah, those are all great, nothing against them.

But it's just the wealth of these courses where you may not even hear about them.

But as we've said so many times, these courses, they're used to seeing the tour bus with all the American golfers drive by and give them a chance.

I mean, you're going to have an incredible experience and that member for the day, you're really going to get it at some of these lesser known courses compared to some others.

Again, there's nothing wrong with any of the big name courses.

It's just you're going to get that kind of another level of touch from the smaller ones.

So, but again, Golf and a Good Life, we've got to talk a little bit of Good Life in the Aberdeen area.

First off is the Marcliffe Hotel.

It's a countryside hotel, I would call it a little bit outside the city center.

If you're wanting to go kind of more in downtown Aberdeen, you're probably taking a taxi to some of those restaurants and what have you.

But it's a fantastic property.

I stayed there now about two years ago coming up, which was great.

It used to be kind of the only five star property in the Aberdeen area.

Within Marcliffe, they have a lot of great golf memorabilia.

I think they even had a picture of the seven pole at Pebble Beach outside of my room.

So not only just Scotland, but golf throughout the entire world, which is great.

And the conservatory restaurant on property and campus there is to die for.

They have really great food.

I mean, it was probably I was over for 19 nights when I was over in 2022.

And I would probably say it was top five meal we had on the trip.

It was exceptional.

Great bar there.

It was really good service.

I guess that everything was very good there from service and the food standpoint.

So that's kind of the Marcliffe.

The other property that we use in the Aberdeen area is the Meldrum House.

I did mention that Marcliffe is kind of a countryside estate.

I would also say Meldrum House is that as well.

A little bit further outside of town and the portions of the hotel date back to the 13th century.

Depending on what room you're in, our groups like to stay in the stables rooms and they're kind of a cozy log cabin feel, I would say.

And they also have the estate rooms, which are a little bit newer and they have more modern finishings.

So both are really great there.

And they also have the chain lodge.

I actually had a group stay there back in June and really enjoyed it.

There's different rooms.

They have some with twin occupancy, double occupancy rooms, and all the rooms are named after different courses throughout Scotland.

It's like the Cruden Bay Room, etc., which is cool.

And then also great offerings for food and beverage on campus.

They've got the Cave Bar, which is really cool.

Duck your head when you're walking through there.

It's a cool spot.

I would say very similar to the one at Merrion in Dublin as well.

Kind of the same feel, if you will.

And the pineapple restaurant, a lot of our groups, even if they're not staying at Meldrum House, will eat there.

They have a tasting menu.

So both of those we use too.

 

D.J. Jones: You know, Meldrum House is one of my favorites.

The Cave Bar lives up to its name for sure.

I mean, it's not every day you get to have a whiskey in like a 12th or 13th century building.

But another great property nearby where I stayed my last visit in Aberdeen almost six or so months ago was The Chester.

This is a little closer to the heart of town, which is one of the key advantages for it.

I'm going to say it's like three or four townhouses, if you will, that have all been essentially combined into one hotel.

It might even be more than that.

I think they have 60 or 70 rooms.

But a really great spot, like I said, a little more convenient to the city center.

Within walking distance, you've got some restaurants and pubs and so forth as well.

But a really stylish place because of how the hotel is built and how many of the hotels for that matter across the pond are built.

No two rooms are likely to be the same.

Mine had a fireplace the last time in it.

So I mean, it's just a great spot and some great hospitality there.

But like I mentioned, right down the street, you've got some great spots for dining and pubs.

The Albyn is a place I stopped in last time.

What a cool mix this place was because it's like outside, you had a beer garden area, you walked in the front door and there was like a proper little pub, and then you continued on to the back and there was a somewhat upscale restaurant.

So it was like the best of all three worlds.

I mean, outside there's people having fun, there's people watching the soccer game and the pub part, and then in the back, it's people having a celebratory dinner.

So it was a cool mix.

The Dutch Mill is another good pub that's not far from The Chester.

I popped in there randomly one night and I don't think it's there anymore, but they used to have a giant tent outside that was like leftover from COVID.

And man, the place was packed.

There was a Man United and Chelsea game going on.

And it was like I was staying in Manchester.

I mean, I couldn't believe how many people were in this place watching it.

I think the tent may be gone, but the pub goes on and it's a good spot for some proper touring.

You know, everybody loves a good castle and an otter castle is here in the area.

It's one of the most photographed spots maybe in Scotland as far as castles go.

It's out on a little point and it's a ruin, but it's backdropped by the ocean.

It's where they hid the Scottish Crown Jewels during the Jacobite Rebellion.

Really popular spot if you're going to go early, get ahead of those tour buses coming by with the people snapping photos.

And then a little further afield, but if you're in at all to your royal history, Glen Garioch Distillery.

Balmoral Castle is also here in the area.

Of course it was a favorite of the late Queen Elizabeth.

It's actually where she passed away.

But you can go and walk the grounds and so forth.

It's a beautiful set of grounds.

And it is closed, though, I should mention, throughout some of the summer.

Actually, I think it's closed August and September because the Royals are, well, they're there.

So they don't want you around during that time.

And last but not least has to be the Glen Garioch Distillery.

You know, this area, it's a little separated from nearby Speyside, where you've got distilleries galore.

Well, if you're wanting to make a distillery stop, this is the place.

It's right around the corner from Meldrum House.

So super convenient.

And then I guess last but not least is just to reiterate what Ru said in the last episode.

And that is if you're at Cruden Bay, take a walk out to the ruins of Slain's Castle, where the novel Dracula was inspired.

And then or go on a stroll on the beach.

There are some nice beaches, that is for sure.

But Connor, that's a kind of a quick rundown, if you will, of the Aberdeen area.

I think we we checked some good boxes there.

Anything that you think we missed before we sign off?

 

Connor Evers: The only thing I was thinking of is, hey, there there is an airport in Aberdeen.

Some some people, you know, don't don't actually mean they don't know or what have but there is a small airport.

You're not going to get any direct flights from the states.

But a lot of times the groups are connecting in London, Heathrow, Amsterdam or Paris.

Those are usually the main three.

But a lot of times it's it's London on a co-chair with British Airways.

Groups of fly American or American Airlines in the Heathrow and then connect on on BA.

But there's an airport there and it's really close to a lot of the golf.

So if you're doing the Highlands, there is also an airport up there.

So fly into Inverness and out of Aberdeen. A lot of groups do.

Some will fly in and out of Edinburgh a little bit further of a drive, but got some more direct flights into there.

But there is an airport and it's pretty convenient.

And again, just just kind of a connection airport.

So I thought I'd mention that too.

 

D.J. Jones: Now, that is a great tip.

We should we definitely should have mentioned it.

And as you're planning flights, you know, don't forget that there are a lot of UK and European carriers that are going to be running flights between those cities.

So you might have, for example, a BA flight to London, and there may not be one to Aberdeen.

But there might be an easy jet flight if you're willing to do that.

Or there might be a, you know, a Ryanair flight to Dublin or what have you.

I took I did Loganair not long ago between, I guess, was it Dublin and Aberdeen or Belfast and Aberdeen?

I can't remember, to be honest.

But anyway, it's it is very convenient.

It's a super small airport.

You walk through the security line and there's your gate kind of thing.

But you know, very convenient if you're starting or ending a trip in that area.

But that is pretty well going to wrap this one up.

As usual, we will link to some guides and other resources in the show notes.

If you have any questions, DM us on social media or send us an email, golf@haversham.com.

But otherwise, thanks as always for tuning in.

We will be back again soon with another episode.

But until then, we wish you plenty of golf at its finest and life at its best.